Hello. My name is Viktor. I’m a cinematographer at Motionary. We are a small production company in Switzerland. And today I’m going to talk about the Tokina Cinema ATX 11-20mm. Probably the smallest zoom cinema lens in this form factor on the market.
Summary
First we’re going to take a look at some specs. After that, we are going to take a look at some shots we did with different cameras. Then I’m going to show you how to change the mount from EF to PL and at the end, I’m going to give you my personal opinion and why we bought the lens.
Tokina Cinema ATX 11-20mm
The Tokina weighs about 0.78 to 1.11 kilograms. It has a length of 99.5 to 125.2 millimetre’s, based on the model you’re using. You can get it with a PL/EF micro 4/3 E and F mount. Something really cool about this cine lens is that you can use it with a matte box, by using a 95 millimetre’s front ring, or you can use it with a screw-on filter, with the 86 millimetre thread. It has a super 35 sensor coverage and a 300 degree focus roll. The build quality is really good. It is a full metal build which has a classic cinema lens feel to it and it is weather sealed. The lens is par-focal, which means you don’t lose the focus if you zoom in or zoom out from an object. More on that during the camera test.
Test Garage
We’ve tested the lens in different environments and the biggest thing you will notice is that you will receive a vignette, if you use the RED Helium sensor at around 11 to 14 millimetre’s. Otherwise you won’t notice any major difference between the cameras. Something special we noticed is that you will receive around a half a stop of exposure if you zoom in from 11 to 20 millimetre’s. This is a common thing on zoom lenses, especially on small ones, because you have moving parts inside and just a limited amount of space to compensate the angle of the incoming light.
Test Outdoor
In the tests outside we’ve used a RHOdium ND filter 1.8 on the lens.
Test Studio
Inside with controlled light, we tried to show you the lens flares. Also on the waveform you will see the loss of exposure if we zoom in from 11 to 20mm
Mount Change Disclaimer
We’ve provided all the footage we’ve used in the tests with a link in the video description so you can see for yourself. if you have any suggestions or things we might have missed, please let us know in the comment section below. Now we are going to change mount. It’s fairly easy, but I’d recommend you, if you want the optimal results, to get it changed from a professional. Because we are working in a micro range, small deviations in the torque, dust or displacement of the shims can change your flange focal distance. The flange focus distance defines the distance between the image sensor and the mounting surface of the lens.
Mount Change Problems
There are some problems that can occur if you want to change the mount. For example, if you put too much torque on the first screw, it will misalign the mount and then it’s impossible to put on the other screws. So make sure that you put just a little bit of torque on the first screw. Then do it on opposite side so it’s aligned and then you can put on the other screws. One things is that if you misalign the holes from the lens, shims and the mount, it is impossible to get any torque on the screws. So make sure that the holes are aligned perfectly, so you can tighten all the screws.
Use with Gimbal
You can mount this lens on a DJI RS 2 because of its size and weight, even in combination with the Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera 6K. To get really stable shots, you can put everything on the Tilta Float. If you want to see how I set it up and see some shots with the Tilta Float, make sure to stay tuned and subscribe to our channel.